| The magazine for the creative mind |

COLLECTION

KENZO

MEN'S & WOMEN'S COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2020

THE LAST MERMAIDS OF JAPAN

by Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring- Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean. The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s. Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.

Our collections are a tapestry of elements combining traditionally marine associated garments with modern and technical diving gear. For women, neoprene suiting in orange, violet and black are juxtaposed against crushed wet-look jersey tops and dresses. Skirts in mermaid jacquard linens are adorned with pearl buttons while nylon tops in vivid colors of corals have sleeves rolled up to the shoulder. Transparent suiting complements the prints of shrimp, mermaids and sea lilies. High waisted trousers feature an assembly of embroideries, reminiscent of treasures amassed while diving. Woven ikats feature on either dresses, tops for women or as panelling on shirts and trousers for men. Tailoring in liquid viscose, sun-bleached denims and ikat prints also straddle both collections. For menswear, hardy rubberised outerwear appears in orange and violet while Hawaïan shirts abound with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Solarised cotton sweaters in indigo or dark greys walk along side tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Jackets and coats in summer linens feature sailor collars and shorts are made of high frequency lazer-cut nylons. Suits are cropped and boxy and classic ‘K’ shirts feature net panels color blocked in lilac and orange. Net prints appear in dégradé pigments on printed cotton.

In our Fall-Winter 2019 collection for KENZO, we introduced a new bag, ‘The Tali’. We revisit the Tali for Spring-Summer 2020, updating it within the themes of the new collection and we introduce a new smaller version, The Mini Tali. Skins of viper snake resemble fish scales. Dégradés recall the approaching light seen from the bottom of the ocean floor. Net straps and bumbags mirror the belt pouches used by the Ama to retrieve their rewards. Sunglasses are high performance and feature solarised lenses to protect. For women, traditional Japanese Okobo sandals in the sea-lily print walk alongside scuba sock sandals and a new unisex sneaker style, the scuba inspired K-Wave for men and women.

THE SHOW

For the Spring-Summer 2020 show, directors Partel Oliva built a strange architecture where space is reconfigured in dramatic ways.

Seascapes with stretched-out suns from photographer Yamazaki Hiroshi’s ‘Heliography’ and ‘Horizon’ series are stitched into a monumental landscape. Through long exposure, the Japanese photographer charted the course of the sun over the ocean, a picture of time itself.

Guadeloupean choreographer Léo Lérus imagined a retrospective procession of looks from Carol & Humberto’s tenure at KENZO from 2012 to now. Parallel to the current collections, figures plucked out of the stream of fashion pay homage to the history of the house, as if time flowed in both directions at once.

THE MUSIC

A special live performance by Solange.

THE MUSIC

Concept and scenography by Partel Oliva | Production by Back of the House | Venue ACCORHOTELS ARENA | Casting by 1979 Services | Make up by Nami Yoshida and the M.A.C PRO team | Hair by Holli Smith for L'Oréal Paris, Hair products provided by L'Oréal Paris | Nails by Naomi Yasuda for L'Oréal Paris, Nails products provided by L'Oréal Paris | Skincare by Embryolisse | Music and performance by Solange | Choreography by Leo Lerus | Asst. Choreography by Micheal German

CREDITS

Concept and scenography by Partel Oliva | Production by Back of the House | Venue ACCORHOTELS ARENA | Casting by 1979 Services | Make up by Nami Yoshida and the M.A.C PRO team | Hair by Holli Smith for L'Oréal Paris, Hair products provided by L'Oréal Paris | Nails by Naomi Yasuda for L'Oréal Paris, Nails products provided by L'Oréal Paris | Skincare by Embryolisse | Music and performance by Solange | Choreography by Leo Lerus | Asst. Choreography by Micheal German

DANCERS

Louise Bille, Dalila Cortes, Eliane Edou, Nikita Goile, Mai Ishiwata, Xiaoyi Liu, Soma Ndoye, Katherine Collings, Robin Fabre, Simon Feltz, Amaud Bacharach, Tom Grand Mourcel, Salomon Mpondo Dicka, Josh Johnson, Tania Dimbelolo, Joēl Luzolo
© 2019 HUF Magazine, a publication of InternetAmi. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our terms.
The content on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached, or otherwise used, except with the prior written consent of InternetAmi. HUF Magazine may earn compensation on sales through affiliate programs.
All rights reserved.
linkedin facebook pinterest youtube rss twitter instagram facebook-blank rss-blank linkedin-blank pinterest youtube twitter instagram